In this article I will focus on Seonunsan (Mt.) Provincial Park and Seonunsa Temple. This is the third article in a series of three, including Gochang Fortress and the Gochang Dolmen UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site, which I hope that, in no uncertain terms, encourages all who read them to decide to visit Gochang in North Jeolla Province (Jeollabuk-do). I can’t say enough good things about this little town that deserves serious consideration when you plan your itinerary when you visit South Korea.
Just a short 30 minute or so bus ride from the city bus terminal (shared with intercity buses), is Seonunsan Provincial Park and Seonunsa Temple.
Seonunsa is a small temple nestled in the gorgeous hillsides of Seonunsan. There are two features of this temple that stood out to me the most.
To begin with, a large rectangular building called the “Pavilion of Eternity” in the center of the temple is unlike any I’ve seen at a temple. It has a door and windows along one long side of the building; however, it has no wall on the opposite side. The open wall faces the main prayer hall which has a 3 story pagoda in front of it.
According to the sign in front of the building, it is a lecture hall used by student monks and was originally constructed in the year 577 by using timbers left after the building of the main prayer halls.
The second, rather outstanding feature of Seonunsa, is a 15.6 meter tall 8.48 meter wide carving of the Buddha on the side of a nearby cliff. According to the information given at the site, the Buddha was carved during the Goryeo dynasty.
Across the small valley from the Buddha carving is another, higher cliff. A set of 400 stairs (I counted) will take you to the top. From this vantage point, you can look down at the temple and see the Buddha carving which only adds to the feeling of grandeur the giant carving gives. The picture above was taken at the end of my hike when I had a decent view of the higher cliff and the now dwarfed Buddha carving.
Even if you are not interested in hiking very far in the park, if you can make it up the stairs, you’ll be rewarded with a wonderful view. Furthermore, I recommend taking a picnic with you to eat if you decide to go to the top of this cliff. There is plenty of space up there to relax with some friends while enjoying the views.
For those of you who are keen hikers, I want to recommend that you take COURSE #4. From the cliff top, you simply need to start walking in the opposite direction of the cliff. You will stay on the ridge line as you take a sort of horseshoe shaped path. By the time you get to the other end of the horseshoe, it’s time to descend back to Seonunsa.
Except for the 400 stairs at the beginning, I had convinced myself that this hike was one of the easiest and most beautiful hiking paths I’d been on in South Korea. That feeling ended abruptly as I experienced a few moments of intensity at about the half-way point. This is where you will have to decide what kind of risks you are willing to take as a hiker. Remember that it will still be a fantastic hike if you decide to turn around here.
What I found was a 15 meter nearly vertical cliff face and a rope attached to it. I’m not really good with heights, but decided I was strong enough and had enough experience with rock climbing in the past to make it down safely. I did make it down safely, but my hands were a little red from holding the rope so tightly. A little further down the trail I encountered another smaller version of this obstacle which I made my way past.
If you can handle the little episodes of rock climbing, as I did, you will be able to enjoy a fantastic hike and wonderful scenery.
There are several restaurants near the parking lot where you can enjoy a delicious meal at the end of your hike. I recall seeing at least one motel there as well. If you like Korean rice wine, as I do, you may want to buy a bottle of bokbunja (berry) flavored rice wine. I bought one to drink while eating my picnic on the mountain, but you can just as easily buy one on the way out. The Gochang bokbunja rice wine is milder than the kind that is usually sold at Home Plus grocery stores which tastes like blueberry yogurt.
Sitting at my desk and looking back, I wholeheartedly recommend that you visit Gochang so that you can see Gochang Fortress, the Gochang Dolmen UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site, and visit Seonunsan Provincial Park with its Seonunsa Temple.
Resources
Seonunsan Mountain Provincial Park (Korea Tourism Organization)
Seonunsa Temple (Korea Tourism Organization)




















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